Yucatán Road Trip: Kabah

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Statue on the east side of the Codz Poop, Kabah. Photo by Joshua Albers, May 23, 2015.

After a full morning at Uxmal (and much needed siesta at the Pickled Onion), we drove south-east to our next stop on the Ruta Puuc: Kabah.

As one of Uxmal’s closest and largest neighbors, Kabah was once connected to the larger city by means of a 30 km sacbe. Today, Highway 261 unites the sites. Visitors park on the west side of the modern road, then cross to pay the entrance fee and explore the remains of two palace-style structures.

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View of Kabah’s east side. The Codz Poop is partially visible on the right.

From the guard’s office, we passed over the open field and climbed the raised platform on which the city’s temples and elite residences once stood. Towards the front of this low plateau sits Kabah’s best preserved and most ornate building, the Codz Poop [“rolled matting”], also known as the “Palace of Masks.”

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Western façade of Kabah’s Codz Poop.
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Detail of the many Chaac masks on the Codz Poop’s façade.
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Chaac mask step at entrance to a room inside the Codz Poop.

As its nickname suggests, the Codz Poop is best known for the 250+ interconnected Chaac masks covering the west-facing façade. Although the lower portion of this wall remains remarkably intact, relatively few embellishments still grace the upper register. Instead, unassigned fragments of the modular faces—mostly upper and lower eyelids—sit in stacked pairs on the ground at the foot of the structure.

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Pairs of eyelids in front of the Codz Poop.

Despite the façade’s partially ruined state, it’s easy to imagine that at its peak, when the wall of faces was not only intact but brightly painted and possibly decorated with hundreds of lights perched on the Chaacs’ long, angular noses, the effect would have been overwhelming, intimidating, and, ultimately, sublime.

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Glyphs carved on the border stones of a small platform in front of the Codz Poop.

Viewing the same building from its east side, however, gives a very different impression. In contrast to the uniformity of the front, the rear decoration is clearly divided into lower and upper registers. The sections between the doorways are covered in the cross-hatching patterns of abstracted mats—from which the building gets its name—while the scant remains of the section along the roofline host two figures in the round. Although one of these warriors is now missing his head, both wore elaborate feathered headdresses, the depictions of which are clearly visible in low-relief on the stone wall behind the statues.

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Warrior statues on the east side of the Codz Poop. Photo by Joshua Albers.

The militaristic theme continues on the late-9th century doorjambs located on either side of the east façade’s main doorway. Aside from their value as rare examples of highly legible, in-situ Puuc reliefs, the doorjambs are especially fascinating for the clues they provide (and questions they raise) about the history of the region. In addition to the inclusion of glyph dates between the upper and lower scenes of each jamb, the carvings also depict warriors possessing attributes associated with central Mexican cultures, including atlatls (spear throwers). Their presence is evidence of contact between the Toltec and Maya, and may suggest an early Toltec invasion of the Yucatan.

[For more information about the dates on the jambs, see “The Reading of Two Dates from the Codz Pop at Kabah, Yucatan,” by David Stuart and Meghan Rubenstein of the University of Texas at Austin.]

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Southern doorjamb relief of warriors on the Codz Poop. The figure on the upper left holds an atlatl in one hand and darts in the other.
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Northern doorjamb relief of warriors on the eastern entrance of the Codz Poop. The figures on the upper and lower left each hold an atlatl and dart, weapons more typically associated with central Mexican cultures.

After taking in the second “palace” and carefully crossing back over the road, we followed the trail from the parking lot to a free-standing Maya arch that marked the beginning of the sacbe that connected Kabah to Nohpat and Uxmal. Aside from this one large but unadorned structure, most of the ruins on the west side of the highway, including Kabah’s great temple, remain overgrown and unreconstructed. Without a wealth of ruins to hold our attention, our focus shifted to other aspects of the landscape, including the hard-working dung beetles who shared our path.

Highly subjective personal rating: 7.5/10 [The Codz Poop is outstanding, but after Uxmal, the smaller site is bound to feel a little underwhelming by comparison.]

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Arch and platform marking the beginning of the Kabah-Uxmal sacbe.

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All photos by Renée DeVoe Mertz, May 23, 2015, unless otherwise indicated.